Turkey’s neck – the whole head
Anticipating the results of this year, I am ready to say today that the main vector of the 2012 gastronomic season has been the development of new local products and the search for postmodern interpretations of classical Russian recipes. Beet tops, goat skins, parsnips, nettles, turnips, pearl barley, millet, sea-buckthorn, bird cherry – what yesterday was exotic for Moscow restaurants, today it becomes a fashionable trend. Of course, it’s too early to talk about a phenomenon similar to the Scandinavian cuisine “Nordic”, which uses every roadside local blade of grass and raises it to the rank of national heritage, but the process has slowly started. Obviously, in the near future our leading chefs will be forced to rely on “fodder” – cereals, vegetables, herbs, berries, since there is no need to rely on local meat production and fishing, for this the whole system needs to be rebuilt, but on its own A vegetable garden to grow peppermint and muslin – these are our chefs already doing. And the results immediately make themselves felt. In this cohort, Dmitry Shurshakov has been taking a leading position for several years, and so it was not a surprise to me that he continued his creative searches in the new “Gourmand” gastropipe, begun in “The Seagull”, though corrected for the location and entourage.